The Case for Bracelet Watches

Of late, the world of horology has rejected the traditional notion of ‘watches for women’. The industry’s gendered ‘shrink it and pink it’ approach to design was left where it belongs – in the past – and tastes turned instead to chunkier, more substantial timepieces previously reserved for men. And yet, change is afoot. One only had to glance at the wrists of the street-stylers out in force for fashion week to see that smaller bracelet watches are having a moment. Coming in at under 35mm, these elegant pieces are part jewellery, part timepiece – an ode to the origins of wristwatches, which were first designed for women as far back as Elizabeth I, when men preferred to carry a pocket watch.

Undoubtedly influenced by the so-called ‘quiet luxury’ effect, the ultimate status symbol has transitioned from a bigger-equals-better approach and returned to the understated, classic elegance of heirloom pieces. Take the Panthère de Cartier – an icon of ’90s style (Gwyneth Paltrow was a particular fan), the chain-strap design has once again been dubbed today’s ‘It-girl watch’ by Dimepiece’s Brynn Waller, having been spotted on the likes of Bella Hadid, Zendaya and Dua Lipa.

Evolving, too, is how to wear a bracelet watch. A purist’s school of thought would say that an investment piece is made to be worn alone, kept in pristine condition and uncluttered by other trinkets. And yet, the beauty of a chain-link watch is how it can be styled with your jewellery. In much the same way that a Birkin bag never looks chicer than when it’s filled to the brim and well worn-in (as demonstrated by Jane Birkin herself), the cool-girl way to wear these pieces is by stacking them with mixed-metal bangles or blended in with various chains.