Saint Laurent
Why Everybody’s Dressing Like a ’90s Style Icon
Feature: Long Read
Words by Eleanor Hibberd
“But I come back stronger than a ’90s trend” – truer words were never spoken by Taylor Swift. It’s no secret that fashion is cyclical by nature, but while reminiscing on some eras makes us wonder ‘what were they thinking?’, something about 1990s style inspires a collective nostalgia like no other. Why? Simply put, it’s timeless. A palate cleanser between the maximalism of the ’80s and Y2K kitsch, the mood of ’90s style was effortlessly understated (the original quiet luxury, if you will) and remains a perpetual reference point for the likes of Carven, The Row, Toteme, Tove, Helmut Lang and many more – our modern-day purveyors of minimalism.
In 2024, its appeal has never been greater. In today’s world of ephemeral TikTok microtrends, there’s something refreshingly stripped back and steadfast about the way stylish people dressed in this pre-millennium era – fashion’s last hurrah before the dawn of smartphones and social media. By day, it was all blue jeans, leather jackets and androgynous blazers; by night, it was little black dresses, midi skirts and crisp white shirts. In essence, the ultimate perennial capsule wardrobe.
Little wonder, then, why well-dressed women of today appear to be referencing the likes of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, Kate Moss, Gwyneth Paltrow and Iman on their moodboards. Street style lately has seen a slew of looks that could have been plucked from the archives, existing in that anti-trend space that eludes an obvious timestamp. The Spring/Summer 2024 runways, too, touted the subtle impact of pieces that whisper rather than shout, laying a new foundation of wardrobe basics from Louise Trotter’s tailoring at Carven to Sabato De Sarno’s knee-length skirts at Gucci.
But how to get it right? Let’s discuss. Much of ’90s minimalism was defined by a cosmopolitan ‘day-to-night’ quality that dominated the decade’s fashion parlance. The ultimate ’90s-inspired dresses, for instance, ride on their versatility – simple but chic column silhouettes or body-skimming slips that allow for easy accessorising. What you’d wear with a preppy sweater draped over your shoulders and strappy flats by day becomes something else entirely when paired with heels and a red lip.
Anyone who’s binged early seasons of Friends will also tell you that the ’90s were all about good jeans. The likes of Khaite, Toteme and Agolde are your go-tos to replicate the shape worn by every It-girl and A-lister of the decade. Think a straight-leg with mid-to-high rise that hits just at or below the ankle.
Where elegant dresses excelled in a classically ladylike fashion, slouchy suiting brought a borrowed-from-the-boys feel to the fore. A step on from the Working Girl power shoulders of the 1980s, tailored two-pieces felt altogether more relaxed and androgynous – after all, what the decade did for menswear was equally unforgettable. Cue suiting so comfortable you could wear it to the airport, à la Cindy Crawford. Is there anything more chic?
As for the palette, no surprises – monochrome tones remain as pivotal for today’s minimalist as they were in the ’90s. Fashion search engine Tagwalk reported that black and white comprised 53% of the Spring/Summer 2024 collections, so it’s safe to say you won’t be lacking in choice. But even a minimalist needs a statement piece. If animal print is on the rise, we have the ’90s redux to thank for it – an otherwise discreet outfit might be elevated by the occasional pop of a cheetah-print coat or a leopard accessory, both of which will truly ground your look in the ’90s zeitgeist.
If you’re still in any doubt as to what constitutes an authentic nod to the ’90s, let us leave you with one indisputable staple – the midi skirt. Brands from Prada and Gucci to Carven and Loro Piana have been behind a revival of this ultra-chic piece, catapulting it back to the spotlight as one of the key buys of Spring/Summer 2024. The shape is straight and sleek – the pencil skirt’s uber-stylish cousin – and pairs with everything from spaghetti-strap camis to polos and men’s shirting. Wear to full effect with this season’s trending shoes (razor-sharp and pointed) for a complete homage to the turn of the century.
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