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Scents To Last a Lifetime

Feature: Long Read
Words by Amelia Bell, Mollie Hammond, Olivia de Courcy

Like seasonal trends, some perfumes come and go. But there are certain fragrances so special that they remain in your fragrance wardrobe forever. Perhaps it's a perfume of the most precious quality, or a juice housed in a bottle that will always make you smile. It could be that a classic perfume had you at ‘hello’ from a young age, or maybe you’re seeking just such an olfactory treasure and aren’t sure where to start. If you’re on the hunt for a scent to stick with, follow our fragrant trail and delve into our expert guide to finding a unique new signature fragrance.

Pure Perfumes

There’s little more indulgent than a pure perfume. It’s considered the most precious form of fragrance, thanks to its high concentration of perfume oil (the precious ingredients making up the scent itself). While an eau de parfum may contain 15 to 20 per cent, pure parfum typically contains up to 60 per cent, with some rare finds composed of 100 per cent. The higher the oil content, the longer the perfume will last on your skin.

If you’re wondering where other perfume formulations fit in, an eau de toilette contains around 10 per cent perfume oil and ‘eau de cologne’ clocks in at 5 per cent on average. ‘Eau fraiche’ is typically composed of 3%, although this can go as low as 1%. A more dilute scent formulation can have its place, as Initio Parfums Privés fragrance expert, Julian Musette, explains that these perfume options “allow you to layer fragrance differently all over the body.” For long-lasting, powerful, emotion-stirring scent, however, pure perfume is the crème de la crème.

"Pure parfum is not an example of self-indulgence but the perfect example of self-care."


Roja Dove

Creed
Timeless ingredients

While some ingredients have their moment in the spotlight (looking at you, pistachio), others stand the test of time. Unlike the now viral gourmand note which has amassed more than 700 million views on TikTok, some ingredients remain timeless for years to come meaning you can wear them season after season. As to those with such a quality, Eva Carlo, Brand Perfume Expert at Creed, recommends ingredients that have been used for millennia, like rose and patchouli, as well as synthetic versions of musk and ambergris. “These two powerhouse ingredients add longevity and X factor to perfume. Musk will be in almost every creation sometimes very obviously and most of the time invisibly as we use it as a building block in perfumery,” she says.

When it comes to the olfactive category, avoid anything that teeters too far into the extremes, like gourmand or oud, as these can be too strong to wear year-round. Similarly, if you’re in the market for a scent to wear around the clock, avoid seasonal trends and flavours. Though fresh and zesty, citrus notes like bergamot and lemon are often synonymous with holidays and won’t see you through the dark winter months while sultry notes like leather,  amber and oud are often reminiscent of winter.

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"Pure parfum is not an example of self-indulgence but the perfect example of self-care."


Eva Carlo

New Signature Scents

A new signature may seem like an oxymoron but experimenting with novel fragrances or fresh ways to wear scent can help you to truly establish your own unique fragrance fingerprint.Guerlain Master Perfumer, Thierry Wasser, advises “keeping your ears and eyes closed when smelling fragrance. This helps you to trust yourself and get close to your own emotions.” Not feeling it? Wassersays that “too often people overthink it –you need to travel on the scent. My motto is ‘don’t think, just smell!’”

Musette recommends letting a signature perfume contender really settle in, as “you need to live in a perfume for a good four to six hours before you know it’s the one for you.”Don’t be swayed by labels either.Parfums de Marly fragrance expert, Thibaut Desbazeille, explains that “all fragrances ought to be considered unisex and should transcend the seasons. Above all, your signature fragrance is an expression of your personality.” Superior quality, multi-generational appeal and a smell that’s utterly timeless are the priorities to consider when seeking out a new classic.

If you’ve got more than one signature on your wishlist, artful fragrance layering could allow you to create a distinctive scent that’s all your own. Consider a hair mist that harmonises with a lavishly scented body lotion or fragrant beard oil worn with a piquant eau de cologne. You’re the expert now.

"You need to live in a perfume for a good four to six hours before you know it’s the one for you."


Thibaut Desbazeille

Nostalgic juices

It’s no secret that perfume can transport us back to memories gone by. “Because the area of the brain that recognises smell is in very close proximity to our memory bank as soon as you smell a scent, it will trigger a memory of when you first experienced it —or a particular ingredient within that perfume —or a significant time in your life when it acted as a marker,” agrees Carlo. “For this very simple reason perfume has the power to be incredibly nostalgic.”

Samer Zakharia, founder of Maison Douze,agrees. “Perfume is expressed through the sense of smell, which is our most instinctive and mysterious sense.” Whether it’s the rediscovery of a treasure like Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle or the iconic Marc Jacobs Daisy eau de toilette, some nostalgic juices can last a lifetime. As to how to find thesignature scent you’ll never forget? “I would say: pick a scent that reminds you of your favorite parent or grandparent with strong basenotes that linger long after you wash your clothes,” says Zakharia.

Finally, it’s not just the blends but how you wear them, adds Dove. “The best place to wear perfume is wherever blood is closest to the surface of the skin (such as the inside of the wrists and elbows) so that, as you move your arms past your face, you can easily smell the scent,” he shares. “Never spray scent directly onto the neck as this area is very sensitive and fragrance has alcohol in it, which will dry out and age the skin.” Contrary to popular belief, he also advises against rubbing your wrists together after spraying scent.“The friction creates heat, which distorts the scent. Simply press your wrists together instead.”

"Perfume is expressed through the sense of smell, which is our most instinctive and mysterious sense."

Samer Zakharia

Chanel no.5
Bottles to Cherish

 

There are some scents that are so recognisable by their bottles that you can practically smell the scent within them with just a glance. Some of the most iconic perfume bottles include the hourglass shaped Dior J’Adore, the simple yet statuesque Chanel No5  and the saddle-like Guerlain Shalimar

 

Beyond the beautiful perfume bottles that we know and love, fragrance flacons are fast becoming covetable, collectable objets d’art in their own right. There are certain standout bottles that you just want to keep on your dressing table for ever and ever. An opulent fragrance bottle also makes for a luxe addition to your video call backdrop, perhaps displayed centre stage on a bookcase. Bvlgari Le Gemme Astrea Eau de Parfum is an example that’s sure to become a talking point, with its bottle modelled on blue aventurine, a semi-precious gemstone revered for its healing properties. Boadicea The Victorious Kahwa Eau de Parfum, meanwhile, features an ornate silver shield on the front and back of the bottle that conveys strength — one spritz and you’ll feel fearless.

 

"Take the time to find the scent that expresses who you are. A scent might be something you have a life-long love affair with, so you wouldn’t pick up a new partner that quickly,"


Roja Dove

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