The Best Men’s Lightweight Jackets for Spring

Wear a bomber jacket and you instantly invoke – whether you intended to or not – James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause. This is a jacket that has been a wardrobe mainstay for nearly a century, largely thanks to its easy practicality and rugged masculine charm. The basic shape doesn’t vary. What makes the difference is fabric. Luxury leather specialists like Loewe, TOM FORD and Brunello Cucinelli source hides of buttery softness, creating pieces that combine protection with surprising levels of comfort. For something lighter, opt for cotton or waterproof shell – ideal for balmier days and spring showers.

When it comes to styling your bomber jacket, jeans and a T-shirt is still the classic (ref. Mr Dean), though there’s no need to stick to it. You can layer yours over a hoodie or roll-neck when temperatures drop, while a patterned or colourful mid-layer – like a camp-collar shirt – is a smart way to add personality and interest. In more casual offices, it can even be worn in place of a blazer, teamed with a shirt and tie.

Work jackets. Chore jackets. Shirt jackets. All mean the same. Deriving from France – the hardwearing uniforms worn by 19th-century railwaymen – and traditionally blue (it’s where we get the phrase ‘blue-collar worker’), shirt jackets are designed to be lived in. Staying true to those functional roots, Stone Island’s version is made from lightweight nylon coated with resin, creating a wind-proof surface that will also protect you from light rain. Somewhat less hardy – but just as all-day appropriate – Frame’s is cut from a smooth wool-blend, while Dunhill works with fine-grain suede for a velvety feel.

Shirt jackets or ‘shackets’ will always look great over a simple T-shirt, but on cooler days a crew-neck sweater – nothing too bulky – will also work nicely. When it comes to trousers, pretty much anything goes. For smarter occasions, a jacket like Frame’s can be worn with a matching wool pair as a relaxed alternative to tailoring.

Gilets have had a bad rap. Perhaps you remember Roman Roy’s scathing remark in Succession: “Nice vest, Wambsgans. It’s so puffy. What’s it stuffed with? Your hopes and dreams?” But much like belt bags, slides and the humble fleece – all once unfashionable practicalities – gilets are now the height of style. Thanks to the development of technical fabrics, they’re not only sharp and sophisticated but lightweight, breathable and – when you need it – warm. It was Moncler back in the ’80s who first made down jackets cool, and the brand – along with Canada Goose – still reigns when it comes to clout. For something unpadded, Rick Owens offers a sleeveless bomber defined by its stylishly oversized cut. And it pays to look to newer brands, too. One of our favourites is Mordecai, a label founded – just so you know – by Ludovico Bruno, Moncler’s former head of design.

That you can wear a gilet over a shirt or sweater is no surprise, but have you thought of your tailoring? A sporty vest is a great way to dress down more structured pieces, and can be worn both over and under your blazer. No wonder they’re offered by sartorial powerhouses TOM FORD, Thom Browne and Giorgio Armani. Mr Roy would be speechless.