Saint Laurent
The Ultimate Wash Day Guide for Curls and Coils
Feature: Long Read
Words by Jennifer George
For those with straight hair, the concept of ‘wash day’ might be alien, just washing their hair every couple of days without a thought. But if you have afro or curly hair, you’ll know that a wash day isn’t as simple as hopping in and out of the shower. “Curly hair has a completely different molecular structure compared to straight hair, with distinct amino acid and lipid distribution,” says Errol Douglas MBE, award-winning hairdresser and salon owner, “this often results in curly hair feeling dry, fragile, and more prone to breakage.” This means the hair needs extra care: not over washing it, nourishing it, and leaving time in your schedule to give it a routine that will keep it looking and feeling its best.
How often should you wash curly hair?
“Curly or coily hair textures tend not to get as oily as other hair textures,” says Annabel Kingsley, consultant trichologist and brand president at Philip Kingsley, “and thus can often go longer between washes before hair looks greasy at the root.” She advises clients with coily or curly hair to not go too long between washes (around every four days), however, as “ultimately healthy hair growth relies upon a healthy scalp environment, so you need to be regularly cleansing away excess oil, sweat, dirt and product build-up to maintain a healthy scalp.” As a rule of thumb, she says, a clean scalp is a healthy scalp, which equals healthy hair. Douglas adds that very curly hair types will likely be the most brittle and prone to damage (such as curl types 4A, 4B and 4C) to avoid overwashing. “They can go as far as every three weeks,” he says.
What is the best routine for washing curly hair?
“Afro hair needs to be washed and conditioned in a specific way to ensure its cleansed and moisturised properly” adds Anaih Warner, colourist and afro hair expert at Larry King. “With straight hair, the natural oils from the scalp can easily distribute down the hair strands, but with afro hair, the texture is coiled so the oils can as easily run to the ends.” Her recommended wash day consists of “one cleansing shampoo followed by a moisturising shampoo, then a deep conditioning mask or treatment left on for 30 minutes (ideally in a plastic cap to keep the heat in).” Once rinsed, a curly hair routine should follow, such as leave-in conditioner and curl-enhancing products.
Hair Prep and Scalp Care
To boost hydration in curly hair, pre-wash treatments can help by “flooding hair with moisture and improving stretchability,” says Kingsley, who recommends the Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Extreme, a supercharged version of their hero product that can be used before shampooing. Scalp conditions such as dryness can affect any hair type, says Kingsley, however, if your curly hair is fine (rather than coarse) a scalp toner or treatment can help to control oil production and strengthen from the follicle. To further treat your scalp, Warner recommends using a scalp massager when shampooing “to make sure you’re giving the scalp a deep cleanse. Plus, it promotes hair growth.”
Shampoo for Curly and Afro Hair
While a great moisturising shampoo will do a good job, look for curl-specific shampoos, says Douglas, as they’ll be formulated with exactly what your curls need. “Curlier hair types can tolerate richer cleansing formulas as they need the extra hydration and detangling,” he adds, recommending Living Proof’s Curl Shampoo which “cleanses, moisturises and detangles all in one step.”
Conditioner for Curly and Afro Hair
Since curly hair can take a lot of moisture, look for rich and nourishing conditioners that will deliver this intensely. “I use Living Proof Curl Conditioner on my curl clients,” says Douglas, “and for extra hydration, sometimes cocktail it with an oil, covering with a shower cap or towel. The heat from the scalp allows for better absorption.” After a thorough rinse, he suggests applying a leave-in conditioner and to “avoid silicones, as they can create a barrier that prevents deep conditioning and moisture absorption.”
What Products Are Best to Use on Curly Hair After Washing?
Just as you might give curly hair a little love pre-wash, you can further enhance things post-wash too. Bonding treatments (that help seal and soothe each hair strand by repairing and preventing breakage) are a great start, says Douglas, adding that for curly hair he’d mix it (something such as Living Proof’s Triple Bond Complex) into a curl creme for any 3B-4C curl patterns.
Whilst your hair is still wet, raking through (with your fingers) curl-enhancing products such as creams will help add extra shine and bounce. Gently scrunching (from the tips of your hair upwards) in gels and enhancers will ensure curls are defined and keep their shape.
What Is the Best Way to Dry Curly Hair?
When drying curly hair, it’s essential not to remove the hydration you’ve just put into it. “Using a curl activating cream will help to define, enhance and separate curls with added benefits or improving shine and softness,” says Kingsley. She recommends getting products into wet or damp hair (to improve absorption) then drying gently with a diffuser attachment, or leaving to dry naturally.
Tips for Making Your Curls Last Longer
“Good curl retention is all to do with the condition of strands,” says Kingsley, who suggests that elasticity is key. “When hair is dry and brittle it doesn’t hold its shape and is prone to breakage, whereas hydrated hair has much more retention. Leave-in treatments can help here, but after washing you can also look for lightweight products that will revive and enhance your curls, adding hydration back in without overloading with product. If your hair does need help between wash days, Douglas suggests supplementing with a co-wash “to remove build-up without over-drying,” then following with a hydrating curl revived. Lastly, remember that haircare doesn’t stop when you sleep. “To extend curl quality between washes, a must-have is a silk bonnet, headscarf or pillowcase.” adds Warner, “This will ensure your hair won’t frizz up whilst sleeping.”
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