Prada
The Ultimate Guide To Colour Correction
Feature: Long Read
Words By Jennifer George
Have you ever tried to conceal dark circles only to find that you've enhanced them? Or applied your usual concealer to redness to find it still peeking through? If so, it might be time to study the rules of colour correcting. Here’s how to conquer the confusing world of colour-correcting make-up and reach the complexion goals of your dreams.
What is skin colour correction?
“Colour correcting works on the principle of colour theory, and in particular opposite colours,” says Dominic Skinner, Director of Makeup Artistry at M.A.C Cosmetics. “The idea is that if you use a little amount of the colour that is in contrast to (or opposite) the shade you’re trying to cover, it will neutralise the area.” An example he gives is covering a blue-ish hue under the eye with a light sweep of an orange tone.
Senior Pro Artist at Bobbi Brown Warren Dowdall adds that similar principles can be used to balance out different undertones in the skin too. For example, yellow balances out redness, or lavender can correct a sallow complexion. “It’s an amazing technique that helps create a more even complexion,” he says, “so less foundation and concealer is needed to create a more perfected look.”
How do you figure out your skin undertone?
“Skin undertones refer to the underlying hue of your skin” says Dowdall, “which can be categorised as cool, warm or neutral.” Where cool undertones have a little pink, red or blue in the skin, warm leans towards yellow or peach. A neutral undertone has a balance of both. “Understanding your undertone can help you choose make-up shades that complement your skin tone” adds Dowdall “and create a harmonious, natural look.”
To figure out your undertone, Skinner suggests looking closely at your face in natural daylight. “Look at the overall sin and then at the cheeks, forehead, chin. Notice whether you can see any subtle red or rich/rosy areas, or if there are more cool, olive tones. This will guide you towards your undertone.”
How do you colour correct on different skin tones?
As with all make-up, one rule doesn’t apply to all. When it comes to colour correction, lighter skin tones are more likely to suffer from redness within the complexion, which Rebecca Moore, NARS Senior Artist, says is best tackled with a yellow or golden undertone. “Look for colour correctors or concealers with a translucent, light texture. Use it sparingly under your foundation to even out the redness, so when you apply your foundation it has seamless coverage.”
For deeper skin tones, Moore usually finds that purple undertones are found. “Here, orange or red tones are great to neutralise” she says. Dowdall agrees, adding that “peach toned correctors can help counteract the dark brown undertones commonly found in undereye circles on richer skin tones.” Some skin tones can benefit from almost a true red concealer tone, which will help to balance out unwanted strong tones of purple or brown.
Skinner at M.A.C adds that sometimes with colour correcting on deeper skin tones, a little customisation could be key. “Instead of just using a colour corrector on its own to neutralise, it can work better to mix it in with some concealer” he suggests. “This can prevent it from looking too ashy.”
How to colour correct when dealing with hyperpigmentation?
Hyperpigmentation – a common condition where seemingly random areas of skin (both large and tiny) become darker than your ‘natural’ skin tone – is extremely common, but perhaps confusing to colour correct due to the nature of it being random. To address it, Dowdall at Bobbi Brown suggests choosing a colour corrector that matches the undertone of the pigmentation. “Peach-toned correctors or concealers work well for dark spots” he says, “and always go for a shade that’s darker than the hyperpigmentation.” His preferred technique is to apply the product directly to the affected areas before applying your ‘true’ skin tone of foundation or concealer, then blending gently for a natural finish.
How to colour correct on acne-prone skin?
Moore follows the rules around redness to help neutralise the skin around acne and blemishes. The aim is not to go too light with the colour, as this will only highlight the spot. She advises to opt for a yellow tone to counteract the redness. Although some might suggest reaching for a green tone, Dowdall says he “typically avoids them for acne, as it can look unnatural when used with foundations and can give a chalky finish.”
He also advises using a crosshatch technique when applying your concealer on the blemish: “Apply it downwards first, leaving for a moment, then across the blemish, gently blurring the edges into the skin. Set with a true skin tone powder rather than a translucent powder for a natural finish.”
How to colour correct redness around the nose?
For redness that can typically occur around the nose, “concealers with a yellow or golden undertone” are usually best, says Dowdall. “Depending on the intensity of the redness, a darker yellow-toned high coverage concealer could be best to counteract the issue.”
Skinner at M.A.C gives the same advice, but also adds that it’s important to remember you’re just using the neutralising shade to correct, not conceal, “so only a small amount it needed. If you use too much of the colour corrector you might end up making it too much of the opposite, unnatural colour – and then you’re back to square one!” When following with your usual concealer, Dowdall suggests a stippling motion so as not to disturb your hard work underneath.
What is the best way to colour correct dark under-eye circles?
Under-eye circles are something most of us see in the morning, whether it’s daily or after a long night! And due to the discolouration, they’re something that your usual concealer may struggle to sort out. This is where colour correcting truly helps. “Under eye discolouration usually falls into the blue or purple colour camps” says Dowdall at Bobbi Brown. “You can tell if your under-eye is more purple if you can see any amount of red within the darkness. If this is the case, using a more peach colour corrector can knock back the darkness. If your under eyes are more blue, then a very light wash of orange will help rebalance the tone meaning you’ll need very little concealer to camouflage the discolouring.” He advises keeping the mix of corrector-to-concealer in mind. “The magic ratio is two-thirds corrector to neutralise and brighten, one-third concealer in your skin tone to bring back the balance.”
What’s the difference between a BB cream and a CC cream?
BB creams don’t fall into the colour correcting camp technically – it’s actually short for ‘beauty balm’ or ‘blemish balm’ – and they primarily focus on providing hydration and light coverage. They are, however, great to pair with spot-on colour correctors as a final finish.
CC creams are colour correcting or complexion correcting: you can think of them like a colour corrector crossed with a foundation. “They’re a versatile makeup product,” says Dowdall. “They offer both skincare benefits and sheer coverage. They’ll be tinted in a hue to target specific colour concerns such as redness, dullness, or uneven skin tone.”
What are the best tools for colour correcting?
How you apply your colour corrector depends on how much coverage you want, how big the area is, and also just your personal preference. For precision, Dowdall suggests using a small, flat brush to get really targeted coverage, “but then also using the warmth of your fingertips to help blend cream or liquid corrector seamlessly into the skin.” For larger areas, a foundation brush could be best.
The trick is to not disturb the product one applied, so if you’re using something on top – your usual concealer, a foundation or CC cream – go gently whether you’re painting on with a brush, patting on via a sponge or tapping away with your fingers.
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